Pattern Size vs. Body Shape: Is this a struggle?
Falling in Love With the Wrong Pattern
Have you ever fallen in love with a bra pattern at first sight—only to realize it probably wasn’t right for your body shape?
That’s me. All. The. Time. I see the pretty lines, the gorgeous photos, and I convince myself, This one will work. I even hit “purchase,” knowing deep down I’ll be wrestling with it later. If you’ve ever done the same, you’re in good company.
The Willowdale Bra from Cashmerette was one of those patterns for me. I loved it instantly. The lace! The shaping! And with over 120 sizes (which is AMAZING!), it seemed like the perfect fit for anyone. How could I go wrong?
Does the Willowdale Bra Fit My Shape?
Well, here’s the twist. My measurements put me at the smaller end of their size range. I’m usually a 32DD: 31" underbust, 35" full bust. So yes, I technically fit into the size chart. (Band sizes 28 to 54 and cup sizes C, D, DD, E, F, G, H, I, and J; includes full bust 31"-65" (79-165 cm) and underbust 28"-55" (72-142 cm)) But sewing isn’t always that simple......right?!
Understanding Breast Shape vs. Pattern Measurements
This is where body-shape theory walked onto the stage thanks to the Bra Academy Mentorship. Numbers told me one thing, but my actual shape told another story.
👉 I have a shallow upper cup—most of my tissue hangs out at the bottom of my cup. That makes me more of an “oval” shape. The catch? Pattern measurements alone never reveal that. You only learn it by fitting, tweaking, and yes, a little bit of trial and error, along with the Body Analysis Chart (free when you subscribe).
So, I started comparing my body with the models used in the Willowdale and had some conversations with my mentors. Slowly, the lightbulb went off. The Willowdale isn’t just drafted for size—it’s drafted for shape. And its shape matches someone with a rounder bust, fuller on both top and bottom.
In the end, I realized the Willowdale wasn’t working with my body—it was working against it. And that’s when the real fun began: figuring out how to shape the pattern to fit me, instead of fitting myself into the pattern.
Adjusting the Willowdale Bra for a Shallow Upper Cup
Adjusting the Cups
The Willowdale wanted more fullness on top than I could give. Instead of tossing the pattern aside, I started adjusting. I reduced volume in the upper cup and shifted that shaping into the lower cup where my tissue actually lives. Suddenly, the cups began to match me, not the other way around.
Adjusting a pattern can feel overwhelming! For me, it meant trial and error—over nine test cups throughout the process. It was discouraging at times, but I stayed determined! Patterns should fit YOUR BODY not your body fitting into the pattern!
Pattern Piece Comparison
In this comparison image, the original pattern pieces are shown in red, while the adjusted pattern pieces are shown in blue.
Right away, you can see that the upper volume has been reduced and shortened, while the lower section has been reshaped to make room for more volume. This helps shift the fullness downward and creates a more balanced shape overall for my body shape.
Seeing the Results
And then came the magic: when I tried on the adjusted version, I saw it. A bra that followed my shape instead of fighting it. The lace lays flat, the support felt right, and for once, I wasn’t trying to squish myself into someone else’s draft, or have way too much fabric in the upper cup!
Sewing Lessons: “Patterns Are a Starting Point, Not a Prison”
That’s when I realized something powerful. Sewing isn’t just about following directions. It’s about understanding your own body and using theory to guide your hands. “Patterns are a starting point, not a prison” (quote from Monica at Bravo Bella).
So, if you’ve ever bought a pattern that didn’t seem to love you back, don’t give up. With the right knowledge—and a little patience—you can make it yours. And trust me, nothing feels better than turning “almost right” into a perfect-for-you fit.
Share Your Bra Sewing Journey!
Have you ever struggled with a pattern that didn’t fit your shape? What adjustment or tricks helped you make it work? 💬 I’d love to hear your story in the comments below!