Understanding Breast Shape vs. Bra Pattern Fit
This is where breast shape theory from the Bra Academy Mentorship changed everything. My bust is fuller at the bottom with a shallow upper cup—what some call an “oval shape.” Patterns like the Willowdale expect upper cup fullness that just isn’t there for me.
👉 Lesson: Pattern measurements don’t tell the full story—breast shape matters.
Adjustments I Made to the Willowdale Bra Pattern
1. Adjusting the Cups
Reduced upper cup volume (since my bust lacks top fullness).
Shifted shaping into the lower cup where my tissue is.
Tested and retested—over nine test cups!—until the fit matched my body.
2. Fitting for a Shallow Bust
Focused on support and lift rather than extra top fullness.
Chose lace that would lay flat without gaping.
Matched my underwire size (38–40) even though the band was smaller.
The result? A bra that finally fit my shape instead of fighting it.
The Results: A Willowdale Bra That Works for Me
When I tried on the adjusted bra, everything clicked: the lace laid flat, the support felt natural, and I wasn’t forcing myself into someone else’s draft.
That’s the beauty of sewing—patterns are a starting point!
Key Takeaways for Bra Sewists
The Willowdale Bra works beautifully for rounder, fuller bust shapes.
If you have a shallow upper cup or wide breast root like me, expect to adjust.
Don’t be discouraged by trial and error—each test brings you closer. It took me 9 iterations to get to this point.
Sewing is about fitting your body, not fitting into a pattern or chart.
Share Your Bra Sewing Journey
Have you tried sewing the Willowdale Bra pattern? Did you run into fit issues with a shallow bust or another shape mismatch? I’d love to hear your adjustments and tips—share your story in the comments below!